Letter to Sydney & Australia: Why I left

Bittersweet? An opportunity missed?

What if? Was the time spent worth it?

Those are some of the questions that ramble through my mind after reflecting on my time down under.

After a little over 2 years and 2 months of experiencing the Australian life, Sanna and I have decided to try our luck back in Europe.

We of course don’t make this type of move without a lot of consideration. We made the big decision to uproot ourselves and migrate to Australia from England. At this point and time, Sanna and I have established a stable life financially and professionally.

However, if you take a nuanced and honest view at our current lifestyle plus if you truly know me and Sanna then you will see our “stability” built in Sydney as a safe form of professional and personal complacency.

We had been there for over two years, however we never quite got the chance to fully settle down. Professionally and logistically we accomplished what was needed. We found a place to stay and jobs to work. Yet, that was how far we were able to go.

We couldn’t fully foresee a permanent base there for a multitude of reasons.

Sanna and I agree that Sydney (and Australia for that matter) didn’t work out for specific reasons but Sanna and I differ on our feelings about Australia after our time here. I will not speak on her behalf as Sanna is quite eloquent with her thoughts on Australia and Australian culture if requested. So I will just offer you reasons, rationale and feelings behind our departure from my perspective.

Before I begin, let me rewind the clock a little bit. Maybe taking a moment to explain the whole move to Sydney to begin with and this should help clarify why we are leaving Australia.

Shrewsbury is a nice little town but was tough for young professionals. (Photo Source: Wikipedia)

It was early 2016 and Sanna and I were living in Shrewsbury which is a quaint little market town in England.

Honestly, we were doing alright. We had a nice centrally located flat near the train station and in front of the Shrewsbury Castle. We had secure jobs that paid the bills and allowed us to start the repayment of our graduate school debts. We traveled here and there including being able to visit home in either Sweden or Florida. We were technically in a good spot.

However, we were still lacking some amenities of a typical married couple of young professionals who wanted to start a family, but also have opportunities for upward professional mobility.

We were good, but we couldn’t really afford a house. Or start a family. Or really get my career going. Or really make a dent into our collective debt (my graduate school loan is the real financial threat here compared to Sanna’s but as Sanna states: your debt is my debt and my debt is your debt).

So, after some time, we decided to look for a place were we could possibly accomplish those goals. Sanna and I then started the deliberation of where to go to next.

USA?

No. Can’t happen. Sanna’s visa was not completed at the time and I was not (and frankly still not) ready to move back to the US.

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I do miss home. I miss my friends, family and the amenities of home however I am still don’t want to go back home permanently. (Photo Source: Google Search)

Sweden?

Getting my visa would be very slow in combination with the strong chance that I would have to settle on my current role as an IT professional. In other words, I would continue working as a computer technician until I get the chance to pivot out of that role.

I didn’t want that.

Where then? Where can Sanna and I go that might present the best place to grow our careers and family?

After some thought (and research), we came to the choice of Sydney and decided to give it a try. Sanna could do an internal transfer within her company and I could hopefully find better career prospects.

Now fast forward two years and we are on the move again. But why?

The reasons for leaving are quite simple. You can break down our break up with Australia into these areas: Career, Money & Visas.

Career

I am ambitious. I will put that out there and make sure it’s known. I have dreams and aspirations plus the drive to pursue them. That’s why I do the things I do including, get an education, obtain strong and respectable work experience and overall develop the credentials for better career opportunities.

I am currently looking to either work up or out of my field. I have been attempting this feat for a little while now with no luck. Don’t get me wrong, I am good at what I do however I don’t enjoy it like I use to. I enjoyed my craft years ago when I knew it was useful for building my fledgling CV and it was new to me. Moreover, I was satisfied earlier in my career with the knowledge that this work is a vital stepping stone in my career. But it was a stepping stone nonetheless.

Unfortunately, I have been stagnant on this stepping stone for far too long leaving me honestly frustrated and anxious.

I left England for Australia for the possibility for better opportunities. That was the thinking that I would arrive with the right experience, attitude and work ethic then I should really see my professional trajectory improve.

Well, after biting the bullet and continuing to work in the same role, it seems that I can’t break the ceiling that has been firmly placed over my professional head.

Because of that, I decided to quickly think of another plan.

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Hopefully Copenhagen can yield better career opportunities after two years in Australia.

Money

Can money buy happiness?

No, not directly. However money can buy the things that bring happiness.

Like a place of your own. Right now on average it will take 8 years to buy a house in Sydney with a twenty percent down deposit. It would be even longer for us since for us to stay in the country that long we would need to pay a lot money pay for a long term visa (I will explain that later). Plus, we still have that pesky graduate school loan hanging over us.

Lastly, I fail to mention costs like childcare in the event of Sanna and I having children which would be higher since we don’t have either of our parents (or extended family) to assist us.

Money is the most lucid and obvious reason for staying or leaving. Explicitly, we’d have needed more money if we really wanted to stay in Australia.

Visa

The Temporary Work (Skilled) (Subclass 457) Visa.

Or simply the 457 Visa.  That is the visa Sanna and I obtained for us work in Australia. To be precise, Sanna was the holder of the that visa and myself being the spouse to the visa holder and thus being granted the same rights of 457 visa as well.

Also, this visa is (or at least was) a direct pathway to a permanent residency visa which leads to an eventual Australian citizenship.

Sounds straight forward, right? But there is more to it. Also, this visa doesn’t even exist anymore as it was recently abolished.

But the main issue we had with our visa setup is that it prevented us from considering to have children. Sanna as the primary visa holder was only allowed to have 3 months of maternity leave and that’s it. Australian citizens (and permanent residents) are given little over 4 months in paid maternity leave. Beyond the 3 months maternity leave as the visa holder, Sanna is required to return to work as her visa is dependent on her working a certain number of months in any given year.

That wasn’t going to fly with me and Sanna. Plus, there is only 2 weeks of paternity leave for me as well which is not that great.

This goes back to the whole topic of needing more money.

For us to have children here in Australia, I would have needed be well paid and sponsored but that never came in fruition.

Even if we had children and decided to stay, the next hurdle would be to fork out at least $10,000 AUD in lawyer and visa fees and wait for a long time for a permanent residency.

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One of the crowning achievements of my time in Australia was being able to host my family.

Overall, the calculus for us to staying and truly settling in Sydney didn’t add up. Because of that, we couldn’t justify staying here let alone staying somewhere so far away from both of our families.

If we were going to stay, I need a better job that paid very well and sponsored me. If that happened, we would have been able to save for a house, have children and justify being so far away from everybody.

However, it was not meant to be. Now we’ve departed Sydney looking for the next locale that might yield better results for us.

That destination we think is Denmark. I will be studying for my second graduate degree at Copenhagen Business School while Sanna continues to work full time. We think pragmatically that this plan is the best move in regards to us advancing our careers, moving closer to our families and eventually start a family.

What are my thoughts about Australia?

I would have been happy to stay in Australia. Even with the distance from both of our families. I envisioned buying a home, starting a family and seeing me and Sanna’s careers take off. But it just didn’t happen that way. Which is unfortunate.

Fortunately, I have had the chance to meet some great people through my work and Sanna’s work. Those relationships that were nurtured here will continue to be with me even if I am back in Europe. Introspectively, I think I have grown more as well and my perspective on life naturally has become more layered and thoughtful. Or least I hope it did.

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Australia will yield mixed emotions like every other place I have lived abroad.

Do I have ill feelings about Australia?

Not really.

I think Australia is very similar to the US as Australia can negatively react to honest external criticism. Either to the ongoing fraught situation of the aboriginal people or human rights violations occurring offshore near Australia orchestrated by the Australian government.

Sydney can be a great place to live. From my perspective, I would advise that if you want to succeed here as a young couple, then you need the husband to be the visa holder. In addition to that, make sure you have enough salary to quickly save for a house and permanent residency while being able to pay for the high overall cost of living.

If you can do that then give Australia a go and god speed.

Kiwi Byrds: Hanmer Springs and Christchurch

Soreness. Stiffness. Dead legs.

That would be sufficient terms to describe the state of mine and my wife’s legs after our long hike the day before.

We slowly got out of bed and meandered into Greymouth. We had a great breakfast at Maggie’s Kitchen where we got a homestyle breakfast and I had the french toast with bacon while Sanna had pancakes.

After that we walked around downtown Greymouth which included a look around the seawall and the old Greymouth Clock Tower.

Another attraction of Greymouth is Monteith’s Brewery Company which is headquartered in Greymouth and represents the beer scene on the west coast of South Island.

For my valiant efforts the day before with the hike up Roberts Point, Sanna surprised me with a tour of the brewery and a beer tasting session.

To be totally honest, I am not the biggest beer drinker nor will I ever say I am a beer connoisseur. However, I am nerd and any chance learn about the process of anything let alone get insight into production, logistics and history of a company, I am game. So the tour was interesting and enlightening to say the least.

Sanna and I indulged ourselves with 6 different beers produced by Monteith’s including an American Pale Ale that was pretty nice. But, I think the highlight of the whole experience was that Sanna discovered a beer that she actually likes and can imagine herself ordering if she remotely had a taste for beer. For the record, that beer was called “The Radler“.

Since I did the drinking, I let Sanna do the driving. From Greymouth we drove across the island and stopped in Hanmer Springs.

Other than Milford Sound, the another attraction we highlighted while planning for New Zealand was the thermal springs in Hanmer Springs. Frankly we modified the itinerary to ensure we stopped there.

We arrived in Hanmer Springs in the early evening and after we quickly checked into our hotel and walked (in a stiff and slightly painful manner) to the nearby hot springs.

We went to the hot springs because we have never experienced them. The other godsend about our decision to stop and check out the hot springs was that we were so sore from the previous day’s hike, the relaxing evening at the hot springs took on a therapeutic feel.

The next day we had a nice breakfast before we casually drove to Christchurch where we found our hotel and returned our rental car at the Christchurch Airport.

Luckily our hotel was in a central Christchurch and made it easy for us to stroll around. We didn’t have any set schedule. We just explored around town. We purchased gifts for the kids including our newborn nephew Theo. Also, I did my obligatory postcards and sent them out to family and friends.

One observation Sanna and I made about Christchurch is that the city is still recovering and rebuilding after the severe earthquakes that hit the city in 2010 and 2016. The most emblematic example of the earthquake damage is the Christchurch Cathedral which still stands in disrepair.

Otherwise, Christchurch gives us the feeling of a hipster and artistic city and gave a nice atmosphere.

In Summation, New Zealand and South Island to be specific is simply magical. You can literally drive pretty much any stretch of road and find a picturesque environment. New Zealand feels clean and fresh as simple as it sounds. South Island is wild and mostly untouched. Probably due to the rough and mountainous terrain of the island. I suggest, if you can, take a good chunk of time, get a car and just drive and enjoy the view.

Top things I learned from South Island.

  1. One way bridges can be tricky
  2. There is sheep. Everywhere
  3. Fergburger is worth it. Get Fergburger in your life. Full stop.
  4. Take a cruise while at Milford Sound. Plus stay dry
  5. Kill possums and buy the fur by products to support the conservation of natural kiwi birds
  6. Hanmer Springs is nice but the food is very expensive for what it is
  7. Rugby runs through the blood of New Zealand
  8. Don’t drive crazy around the turns in the mountains unless you want to test your fate (and car)

 

NZ Trip Map

Kiwi Byrds: Lake Wanaka and Franz Josef Glacier

We woke up in Te Anau after an amazing cruise around Milford Sound. Today would be a lot of driving as we travel up to Franz Josef Glacier. We had an idea that even though we won’t really stop anywhere, there should be an abundance of picturesque views on on this drive to Glacier Country.

We got up and got breakfast before we got in the car, synced up our podcasts plus the most diverse road trip play list you can think of, and hit the road.

Like I said, more driving than stopping this day, but from the pictures, you will see that pictures does all of talking at this point. We did stop at Lake Wanaka for lunch and stroll around the lake that gives the town its name before continuing the migration to the west coast of the South Island and heading north.

We made it to Glacier Country after dark and arrived into the small town named after the Franz Josef Glacier where we quickly checked into our hostel room and had dinner. We called it a night as soon as possible as we knew tomorrow would be an eventful day in more ways than one.

We woke up and knew today was important.

The main reason is that today, March 28, is our fourth year wedding anniversary. So, you know what that means…..

That classic will be played a few times throughout the day.

Another reason, was that Sanna and I would hike for 11 kilometers and go up over 600 meters to get a good view of Franz Josef Glacier.

Sanna and I have learned already that we are sometimes foolishly stubborn. Our excursion up to Roberts Point on our anniversary would be an excellent example of this self assessment.

The Roberts Point trail was hailed and warned as a trail for “experienced” and “mature” hikers. We thought to ourselves, well we have hiked before and we consider ourselves pretty mature and experienced so we should have no trouble with this trail.

Boy we were in for a rude awakening. The estimated return time for this hike was 5 hours. We did it in 7 hours. 7 hours due to the amount times we had to stop because we were either exhausted on the way up or experiencing muscle cramps and spasms on the way back down.

Let’s just say after we were done, we got our fill of hiking for a short while. However, it was worth it.

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Behind those smiles were tired and sweaty existences. Moreover, the thought of the pending doom of our trek back down lingered heavily on our minds while we were up there.

The timely and arduous trail didn’t give us much time to drive up to Greymouth for a nice anniversary dinner.

We got some amazing shots on the drive north on west coast north of Franz Josef towards Greymouth.

So, we did what we could. As a result, we had a romantic dinner in our accommodation which was two pizzas from dominoes and water. That meal oozed with intimacy and romanticism as we ate 5 dollar pizzas on the cardboard it came in.

But it was nice to calm down after a lot walking (including some actual climbing) and some driving and just laugh at our inherent ability to ignore the warning signs then show a funny and blinded faith in our ability. Case in point for our grueling hike up a mountain because we didn’t want to be defeated and to retreat plus we had the desire to get a great view of a glacier which are not that common outside of Arctic environments.

Lastly, it is just another adventure that continues to forge us together on this journey we are exploring together as a married couple. Love my Sanna Byrd.

Kiwi Byrds: Queenstown and Milford Sound

New Zealand. The land further down under and home of the Lord of The Rings.

But before I jump straight into the first couple days of our new adventure, let me give you a brief backstory of our choice to travel here.

Sanna and I decided to make a trip somewhere during the Easter Break since we already had a few days off and could extend the break with some annual leave.

For destinations, we were choosing between Perth and Western Australia; Queensland or New Zealand. Those were good options to have to be honest.

We went with NZ because Western Australia was nice but the South Island of NZ was a little more enticing. Also, even though we would love to see Queensland and the Barrier Reef, I am from tropical Florida and can enjoy the same climate and coral reefs of the Florida Keys and the Caribbean. We do miss the cute quokka of WA but some sacrifices had to be made.

It is a luxurious problem to have such options but New Zealand was a whole new country to explore.

Now, on to the highlights of our arrival and first two whole days.

We had an afternoon flight so we arrived in the evening. Wasn’t ideal, but this made the plane ticket cheaper so we will take it.

The flight was very uneventful, which is always great. I am a firm believer of uneventful flights over “eventful” flights. But we had amazing views of the ground from above.

We passed through security and immigration in Queenstown Airport with ease. Sanna’s was smoother than mine to be frank. We went through different queues due to our nationalities. I say Sanna had it better because her queue was shorter and she was able to get a stamp in her passport. I love getting stamps in my passport but was not able to this time because of an agreement between NZ and the USA (ePassport).

Because of the time we arrived, we just had time to get to our accommodation and have dinner. We went to the famous Fergburger. I can say without a doubt that I had one of the best burgers in my lifetime there. If you make it to this side of the world, then you must give it a go. There is always a long line to get a meal so they are doing something right. Beyond that, we quickly went back to our place for the night and slept.

The next day we spent in Queenstown. We got up and had a simple breakfast and went into town. Queenstown is a nice small town known for skiing in the winter and outdoor sports in the summer.

We first stopped by the Kiwi and Birdlife Park. This place is a park plus a wildlife conservation effort. We were able to see some of the native birds including the well known Kiwi.

Interesting takeaway from a presentation of different animals are the showing of animals non-indigenous to New Zealand and considered pests. One of the animals was the cute possum from Australia. The possum has been such a nuisance to the natural environment that we were advised (encouraged even) to not swerve around them with our cars, but to kill them. Also, the purchase of possum fur was requested of us as this will incentive the trapping of invasive possums.

So we did. We did our part for the protection of New Zealand and its wildlife by buying two pairs of gloves and a hat made from Merino wool with possum fur. Possum fur is very soft and warm. Also, Sanna found a nice tea towel with Kiwis on it.

We went into central Queenstown and had lunch before meandering around in combination with some window shopping. While exploring I found a nice sports shop. If you don’t know already, I collect sports scarves and/or memorabilia from my travels. So naturally, I had to get myself a scarf representing the New Zealand Rugby Team or the “All Blacks”. Also, I am quite nerdy and I collect currencies of the countries I travel. So I made sure I immediately saved a five dollar bill for my ever growing collection.

We did a quick walk around the Queenstown Gardens which had a impressive rose garden, different types of trees and great views of the surrounding mountain side.

Honestly we just enjoyed the views of the town and people. The weather was cool but sunny. Later that day after dinner, we treated ourselves to cookies from the Cookie Bar. Triple chocolate cookie for Sanna and a white chocolate and macadamia nut cookie for me. After dessert with tea, we turned in for the night.

This morning was the first day we would drive in the country. Also, today is the only scheduled activity so far. We planned to take the last cruise for the day of Milford Sound. The drive would be over three hours from Queenstown. So in other words, we were on a tight schedule. We backtracked to the airport to pick up our vehicle and quickly hit the road. I essentially did what I could without speeding to get us to Milford Sound in time. To our luck we made it in time for a quick lunch before speed walking to the dock.

Milford Sound. Actually it is not a sound but a fjord. Lesson number 1. Lesson number 2, Milford sound is the wettest place on earth at sea level.

I can not explain the beauty of the place. I hope the pictures do Milford Sound justice. While driving down to the port and during the cruise, it was rainy and windy. However, the weather added to the lure and mystique of the place. Milford Sound and the surrounding area and park has to be one of the most stunning places I have ever seen.

After the cruise, we enjoyed the ride back to the village of Te Anau for night. You will see in the pictures below that we got a very small setup but it will do.

I am writing this now after dinner and about to retire for the night but tomorrow should nice with more amazing vistas while driving up to Franz Josef Glacier.

The Expat Life: The Evolving Identity

In a few months I will have lived abroad for 6 years. 5 countries and 4 continents later, lets just say my perspective of myself and the world has drastically changed.

If you compared me in 2012 before my expat journey to me now going into my third year in Sydney, you will see a significant difference.

I believe, I have grown exponentially. I have experienced success, failure and some mediocrity or unwanted complacency of ambitions yet to be fulfilled. Through all of this, I have developed grit with a much nuanced view of the world. I am not saying I had a naive or narrow-minded view of the world before, but my view of world naturally changed after getting the chance to actually seeing it.

Like most expats, you inevitably change. Main change is how you see yourself or your self-identity.

Lupe Fiasco rhymed in his song “Gold Watch“:

I am American mentally/with Japanese tendencies/Parisian sensibilities…

That got me to thinking. How would I describe myself? Well, I came up with the below.

I am African-american mentally with British tendencies and slight Swedish sensibilities.

Not as smooth as Lupe, but I will run with it for now.

My wife Sanna refuses to allow any Norwegian influence on me as she sees that as some form of corruption. Meanwhile, it remains to be seen how much of the Aussie experience will leave a mark on me.

I am an intelligent black man (“Mr. IBM” as my mother would call me growing up and still does to this day) and that will forever be at the base of my identity and I take pride in that. Beyond that foundation is my complicated identity as an American.

Being an American of African decent, my relationship with the United States is not simple by any means. As far as I can tell, I am the fifth generation of freed slaves and along with my sister, we are the first beyond our parents to live in a “post segregation” America. Yet, America is not “post racial”. Not by a long shot. Furthermore, America has taken a Trumpian turn for the worse as American society.

I can go on but for the sake of brevity, let’s just leave it at the fact that my relationship with America has a lot to unpack.

Swiftly moving on.

I’ve had the opportunity to live in the United Kingdom for three years. During those three years, I have garnered some forms of Britishness.

Where do I start? I appreciate quirky and dry British humor and wit. Nothing like going for a pint after work (especially on Fridays). I slightly cringe when I do see a proper queue to get on a bus or train. I have said it before, but I do love a good Chippy (fish and chips shop), kebab, curry, and fry up (full English breakfast). In addition, I have become a slight tea snob (Twinings for the win).

I have lived longer in Sydney than in London. Yet, I still see myself as Londoner to this day but not a Sydneysider at this point in time. Let that marinate for a second.

I have lived with Sanna for almost five years now. Additionally, I have visited Sweden and my in-laws on numerous occasions. Because of that, I have and continue to be under the heavy influence of Swedish (and general Scandinavian) culture and thinking. You can’t help but learn a thing or two from the Nordics.

America is the most individualistic nation in the world. That is a double-edged sword that cuts deep into the prevalent successes and failures of the American “Way” or “Exceptionalism”.

Meanwhile, Sweden is more collective as a society. Some people will call them the dreaded word socialist. However, because of this collective or socialist thinking, they are some of the best countries to live in. Maternity (and paternity) leave, universal healthcare, free education (even at the university level) and a very progressive environmental policy. That is just some of the good stuff Sweden is doing and their policies have influenced my political thinking a lot more than the Brits.

Don’t get me wrong, Sweden is not a perfect place. Check out the issues of immigration, integration and xenophobia/racism. But like an à la carte menu, I pick and choose political ideas that seems to make logical sense that is best for humanity from the places I have lived or at least observed.

Wow. I didn’t expect to go that deep into political and societal commentary. Sorry for going down the rabbit hole on that one.

Back to Sweden. I love the Swedish food. They make good bread. Their crisp bread (knäckebröd in Swedish) is diverse as pasta is in Italy. Plus, they take pride in making quality food products due to their high food standards (I am looking at you US Food and Drug Administration). Because of the dark winters, Swedes love having candles throughout the house. I look up from my computer screen now and see two big candles within view. And Sweden and Scandinavia for that matter has some of the most beautiful slices of nature from the mountains to the coast and islands a person can see.

I can go on but I want to go another point. After living abroad, my bias to products and brands has changed. I was predominantly American in this area. However, my personal list of favorite products has expanded and diversified.

I write this because, naturally the brands you are loyal to also speaks of your identity.

Going back the song “Gold Watch” by Lupe, he says:

I like Diptyque candles and Maharishi sandals and
Dita sunglasses, Purple Murder Service samples
I like False T-shirts Dover Street is off the handle
Such a good designer, Junya Watanabe, god damn you
I like Yohji Yamamoto and a Max Roach solo
Leather Gucci belts and Guilty Brotherhood polos
I like Montblanc pens and Moleskine paper
I like Goyard bags and green Now and Laters
Monocle magazine and Japanese manga
Futura Nosferatus and HTM trainers
I love Street Fighter 2, I just really hate Zangief
Only Ken and Ryu, I find it hard to beat Blanka
Keep a Wee Ninja hanging and an UNKLE album banging..

Don’t get it twisted, I am not over materialistic. At least I don’t think I am. Actually, living abroad and moving around quite a bit has forced to me stay lean with items and only travel with the essentials. So I want to make that clear.

I do have a list of prized possessions or brands/products I trust and are go to items. I love a good Moleskine note with a quality pen. I have a Barbour bag and Fjällräven backpack plus a Samsonite weekend bag that swear by. I am still a PlayStation gamer and represent team Nike/Jordan.

I can’t go wrong with Clark shoes, or Dressmann underwear. Yes, I have become particular about my under garments. M&S cashmere jumpers (or sweaters as we call them back home in the US) and Mason Cash or Le Cruset kitchenware comes to mind as quality products I always go for if possible.

I am not name dropping to show off. More times than not, I am okay with a cheaper brand/product as longs as it actually does the job intended. But, there are just some things I just can’t go without.

I usually try to have a Moleskine near me to write any notes that I want to save.

Good or bad, based on what I mentioned above, you have formed an initial or modified an existing view of me. Yet, that’s the point. Fair or not, what I consume is an important part of my identity.

Let’s just say as cliche as it sounds, I have grown. Yes, I would have grown if I have stayed in the US and only have traveled abroad from time to time. On the contrary I think a 32 year old Michael who did’t leave for Europe almost six years ago would look very very different to the Michael you see now.

I foresee at least another 5 years or so outside the United States and this is definitely by choice. I do miss the day-to-day opportunities to spend time with my friends and family. But I don’t miss living in America and everything with comes with it. As of now, I am content with going home a couple times a year but quickly head back out when I am tired of the craziness that is Planet America*.

* I give credit of that name to the amazing US political commentary show here in Australia.