Kiwi Byrds: Hanmer Springs and Christchurch

Soreness. Stiffness. Dead legs.

That would be sufficient terms to describe the state of mine and my wife’s legs after our long hike the day before.

We slowly got out of bed and meandered into Greymouth. We had a great breakfast at Maggie’s Kitchen where we got a homestyle breakfast and I had the french toast with bacon while Sanna had pancakes.

After that we walked around downtown Greymouth which included a look around the seawall and the old Greymouth Clock Tower.

Another attraction of Greymouth is Monteith’s Brewery Company which is headquartered in Greymouth and represents the beer scene on the west coast of South Island.

For my valiant efforts the day before with the hike up Roberts Point, Sanna surprised me with a tour of the brewery and a beer tasting session.

To be totally honest, I am not the biggest beer drinker nor will I ever say I am a beer connoisseur. However, I am nerd and any chance learn about the process of anything let alone get insight into production, logistics and history of a company, I am game. So the tour was interesting and enlightening to say the least.

Sanna and I indulged ourselves with 6 different beers produced by Monteith’s including an American Pale Ale that was pretty nice. But, I think the highlight of the whole experience was that Sanna discovered a beer that she actually likes and can imagine herself ordering if she remotely had a taste for beer. For the record, that beer was called “The Radler“.

Since I did the drinking, I let Sanna do the driving. From Greymouth we drove across the island and stopped in Hanmer Springs.

Other than Milford Sound, the another attraction we highlighted while planning for New Zealand was the thermal springs in Hanmer Springs. Frankly we modified the itinerary to ensure we stopped there.

We arrived in Hanmer Springs in the early evening and after we quickly checked into our hotel and walked (in a stiff and slightly painful manner) to the nearby hot springs.

We went to the hot springs because we have never experienced them. The other godsend about our decision to stop and check out the hot springs was that we were so sore from the previous day’s hike, the relaxing evening at the hot springs took on a therapeutic feel.

The next day we had a nice breakfast before we casually drove to Christchurch where we found our hotel and returned our rental car at the Christchurch Airport.

Luckily our hotel was in a central Christchurch and made it easy for us to stroll around. We didn’t have any set schedule. We just explored around town. We purchased gifts for the kids including our newborn nephew Theo. Also, I did my obligatory postcards and sent them out to family and friends.

One observation Sanna and I made about Christchurch is that the city is still recovering and rebuilding after the severe earthquakes that hit the city in 2010 and 2016. The most emblematic example of the earthquake damage is the Christchurch Cathedral which still stands in disrepair.

Otherwise, Christchurch gives us the feeling of a hipster and artistic city and gave a nice atmosphere.

In Summation, New Zealand and South Island to be specific is simply magical. You can literally drive pretty much any stretch of road and find a picturesque environment. New Zealand feels clean and fresh as simple as it sounds. South Island is wild and mostly untouched. Probably due to the rough and mountainous terrain of the island. I suggest, if you can, take a good chunk of time, get a car and just drive and enjoy the view.

Top things I learned from South Island.

  1. One way bridges can be tricky
  2. There is sheep. Everywhere
  3. Fergburger is worth it. Get Fergburger in your life. Full stop.
  4. Take a cruise while at Milford Sound. Plus stay dry
  5. Kill possums and buy the fur by products to support the conservation of natural kiwi birds
  6. Hanmer Springs is nice but the food is very expensive for what it is
  7. Rugby runs through the blood of New Zealand
  8. Don’t drive crazy around the turns in the mountains unless you want to test your fate (and car)

 

NZ Trip Map

Kiwi Byrds: Lake Wanaka and Franz Josef Glacier

We woke up in Te Anau after an amazing cruise around Milford Sound. Today would be a lot of driving as we travel up to Franz Josef Glacier. We had an idea that even though we won’t really stop anywhere, there should be an abundance of picturesque views on on this drive to Glacier Country.

We got up and got breakfast before we got in the car, synced up our podcasts plus the most diverse road trip play list you can think of, and hit the road.

Like I said, more driving than stopping this day, but from the pictures, you will see that pictures does all of talking at this point. We did stop at Lake Wanaka for lunch and stroll around the lake that gives the town its name before continuing the migration to the west coast of the South Island and heading north.

We made it to Glacier Country after dark and arrived into the small town named after the Franz Josef Glacier where we quickly checked into our hostel room and had dinner. We called it a night as soon as possible as we knew tomorrow would be an eventful day in more ways than one.

We woke up and knew today was important.

The main reason is that today, March 28, is our fourth year wedding anniversary. So, you know what that means…..

That classic will be played a few times throughout the day.

Another reason, was that Sanna and I would hike for 11 kilometers and go up over 600 meters to get a good view of Franz Josef Glacier.

Sanna and I have learned already that we are sometimes foolishly stubborn. Our excursion up to Roberts Point on our anniversary would be an excellent example of this self assessment.

The Roberts Point trail was hailed and warned as a trail for “experienced” and “mature” hikers. We thought to ourselves, well we have hiked before and we consider ourselves pretty mature and experienced so we should have no trouble with this trail.

Boy we were in for a rude awakening. The estimated return time for this hike was 5 hours. We did it in 7 hours. 7 hours due to the amount times we had to stop because we were either exhausted on the way up or experiencing muscle cramps and spasms on the way back down.

Let’s just say after we were done, we got our fill of hiking for a short while. However, it was worth it.

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Behind those smiles were tired and sweaty existences. Moreover, the thought of the pending doom of our trek back down lingered heavily on our minds while we were up there.

The timely and arduous trail didn’t give us much time to drive up to Greymouth for a nice anniversary dinner.

We got some amazing shots on the drive north on west coast north of Franz Josef towards Greymouth.

So, we did what we could. As a result, we had a romantic dinner in our accommodation which was two pizzas from dominoes and water. That meal oozed with intimacy and romanticism as we ate 5 dollar pizzas on the cardboard it came in.

But it was nice to calm down after a lot walking (including some actual climbing) and some driving and just laugh at our inherent ability to ignore the warning signs then show a funny and blinded faith in our ability. Case in point for our grueling hike up a mountain because we didn’t want to be defeated and to retreat plus we had the desire to get a great view of a glacier which are not that common outside of Arctic environments.

Lastly, it is just another adventure that continues to forge us together on this journey we are exploring together as a married couple. Love my Sanna Byrd.

Kiwi Byrds: Queenstown and Milford Sound

New Zealand. The land further down under and home of the Lord of The Rings.

But before I jump straight into the first couple days of our new adventure, let me give you a brief backstory of our choice to travel here.

Sanna and I decided to make a trip somewhere during the Easter Break since we already had a few days off and could extend the break with some annual leave.

For destinations, we were choosing between Perth and Western Australia; Queensland or New Zealand. Those were good options to have to be honest.

We went with NZ because Western Australia was nice but the South Island of NZ was a little more enticing. Also, even though we would love to see Queensland and the Barrier Reef, I am from tropical Florida and can enjoy the same climate and coral reefs of the Florida Keys and the Caribbean. We do miss the cute quokka of WA but some sacrifices had to be made.

It is a luxurious problem to have such options but New Zealand was a whole new country to explore.

Now, on to the highlights of our arrival and first two whole days.

We had an afternoon flight so we arrived in the evening. Wasn’t ideal, but this made the plane ticket cheaper so we will take it.

The flight was very uneventful, which is always great. I am a firm believer of uneventful flights over “eventful” flights. But we had amazing views of the ground from above.

We passed through security and immigration in Queenstown Airport with ease. Sanna’s was smoother than mine to be frank. We went through different queues due to our nationalities. I say Sanna had it better because her queue was shorter and she was able to get a stamp in her passport. I love getting stamps in my passport but was not able to this time because of an agreement between NZ and the USA (ePassport).

Because of the time we arrived, we just had time to get to our accommodation and have dinner. We went to the famous Fergburger. I can say without a doubt that I had one of the best burgers in my lifetime there. If you make it to this side of the world, then you must give it a go. There is always a long line to get a meal so they are doing something right. Beyond that, we quickly went back to our place for the night and slept.

The next day we spent in Queenstown. We got up and had a simple breakfast and went into town. Queenstown is a nice small town known for skiing in the winter and outdoor sports in the summer.

We first stopped by the Kiwi and Birdlife Park. This place is a park plus a wildlife conservation effort. We were able to see some of the native birds including the well known Kiwi.

Interesting takeaway from a presentation of different animals are the showing of animals non-indigenous to New Zealand and considered pests. One of the animals was the cute possum from Australia. The possum has been such a nuisance to the natural environment that we were advised (encouraged even) to not swerve around them with our cars, but to kill them. Also, the purchase of possum fur was requested of us as this will incentive the trapping of invasive possums.

So we did. We did our part for the protection of New Zealand and its wildlife by buying two pairs of gloves and a hat made from Merino wool with possum fur. Possum fur is very soft and warm. Also, Sanna found a nice tea towel with Kiwis on it.

We went into central Queenstown and had lunch before meandering around in combination with some window shopping. While exploring I found a nice sports shop. If you don’t know already, I collect sports scarves and/or memorabilia from my travels. So naturally, I had to get myself a scarf representing the New Zealand Rugby Team or the “All Blacks”. Also, I am quite nerdy and I collect currencies of the countries I travel. So I made sure I immediately saved a five dollar bill for my ever growing collection.

We did a quick walk around the Queenstown Gardens which had a impressive rose garden, different types of trees and great views of the surrounding mountain side.

Honestly we just enjoyed the views of the town and people. The weather was cool but sunny. Later that day after dinner, we treated ourselves to cookies from the Cookie Bar. Triple chocolate cookie for Sanna and a white chocolate and macadamia nut cookie for me. After dessert with tea, we turned in for the night.

This morning was the first day we would drive in the country. Also, today is the only scheduled activity so far. We planned to take the last cruise for the day of Milford Sound. The drive would be over three hours from Queenstown. So in other words, we were on a tight schedule. We backtracked to the airport to pick up our vehicle and quickly hit the road. I essentially did what I could without speeding to get us to Milford Sound in time. To our luck we made it in time for a quick lunch before speed walking to the dock.

Milford Sound. Actually it is not a sound but a fjord. Lesson number 1. Lesson number 2, Milford sound is the wettest place on earth at sea level.

I can not explain the beauty of the place. I hope the pictures do Milford Sound justice. While driving down to the port and during the cruise, it was rainy and windy. However, the weather added to the lure and mystique of the place. Milford Sound and the surrounding area and park has to be one of the most stunning places I have ever seen.

After the cruise, we enjoyed the ride back to the village of Te Anau for night. You will see in the pictures below that we got a very small setup but it will do.

I am writing this now after dinner and about to retire for the night but tomorrow should nice with more amazing vistas while driving up to Franz Josef Glacier.

The Expat Life: The Evolving Identity

In a few months I will have lived abroad for 6 years. 5 countries and 4 continents later, lets just say my perspective of myself and the world has drastically changed.

If you compared me in 2012 before my expat journey to me now going into my third year in Sydney, you will see a significant difference.

I believe, I have grown exponentially. I have experienced success, failure and some mediocrity or unwanted complacency of ambitions yet to be fulfilled. Through all of this, I have developed grit with a much nuanced view of the world. I am not saying I had a naive or narrow-minded view of the world before, but my view of world naturally changed after getting the chance to actually seeing it.

Like most expats, you inevitably change. Main change is how you see yourself or your self-identity.

Lupe Fiasco rhymed in his song “Gold Watch“:

I am American mentally/with Japanese tendencies/Parisian sensibilities…

That got me to thinking. How would I describe myself? Well, I came up with the below.

I am African-american mentally with British tendencies and slight Swedish sensibilities.

Not as smooth as Lupe, but I will run with it for now.

My wife Sanna refuses to allow any Norwegian influence on me as she sees that as some form of corruption. Meanwhile, it remains to be seen how much of the Aussie experience will leave a mark on me.

I am an intelligent black man (“Mr. IBM” as my mother would call me growing up and still does to this day) and that will forever be at the base of my identity and I take pride in that. Beyond that foundation is my complicated identity as an American.

Being an American of African decent, my relationship with the United States is not simple by any means. As far as I can tell, I am the fifth generation of freed slaves and along with my sister, we are the first beyond our parents to live in a “post segregation” America. Yet, America is not “post racial”. Not by a long shot. Furthermore, America has taken a Trumpian turn for the worse as American society.

I can go on but for the sake of brevity, let’s just leave it at the fact that my relationship with America has a lot to unpack.

Swiftly moving on.

I’ve had the opportunity to live in the United Kingdom for three years. During those three years, I have garnered some forms of Britishness.

Where do I start? I appreciate quirky and dry British humor and wit. Nothing like going for a pint after work (especially on Fridays). I slightly cringe when I do see a proper queue to get on a bus or train. I have said it before, but I do love a good Chippy (fish and chips shop), kebab, curry, and fry up (full English breakfast). In addition, I have become a slight tea snob (Twinings for the win).

I have lived longer in Sydney than in London. Yet, I still see myself as Londoner to this day but not a Sydneysider at this point in time. Let that marinate for a second.

I have lived with Sanna for almost five years now. Additionally, I have visited Sweden and my in-laws on numerous occasions. Because of that, I have and continue to be under the heavy influence of Swedish (and general Scandinavian) culture and thinking. You can’t help but learn a thing or two from the Nordics.

America is the most individualistic nation in the world. That is a double-edged sword that cuts deep into the prevalent successes and failures of the American “Way” or “Exceptionalism”.

Meanwhile, Sweden is more collective as a society. Some people will call them the dreaded word socialist. However, because of this collective or socialist thinking, they are some of the best countries to live in. Maternity (and paternity) leave, universal healthcare, free education (even at the university level) and a very progressive environmental policy. That is just some of the good stuff Sweden is doing and their policies have influenced my political thinking a lot more than the Brits.

Don’t get me wrong, Sweden is not a perfect place. Check out the issues of immigration, integration and xenophobia/racism. But like an à la carte menu, I pick and choose political ideas that seems to make logical sense that is best for humanity from the places I have lived or at least observed.

Wow. I didn’t expect to go that deep into political and societal commentary. Sorry for going down the rabbit hole on that one.

Back to Sweden. I love the Swedish food. They make good bread. Their crisp bread (knäckebröd in Swedish) is diverse as pasta is in Italy. Plus, they take pride in making quality food products due to their high food standards (I am looking at you US Food and Drug Administration). Because of the dark winters, Swedes love having candles throughout the house. I look up from my computer screen now and see two big candles within view. And Sweden and Scandinavia for that matter has some of the most beautiful slices of nature from the mountains to the coast and islands a person can see.

I can go on but I want to go another point. After living abroad, my bias to products and brands has changed. I was predominantly American in this area. However, my personal list of favorite products has expanded and diversified.

I write this because, naturally the brands you are loyal to also speaks of your identity.

Going back the song “Gold Watch” by Lupe, he says:

I like Diptyque candles and Maharishi sandals and
Dita sunglasses, Purple Murder Service samples
I like False T-shirts Dover Street is off the handle
Such a good designer, Junya Watanabe, god damn you
I like Yohji Yamamoto and a Max Roach solo
Leather Gucci belts and Guilty Brotherhood polos
I like Montblanc pens and Moleskine paper
I like Goyard bags and green Now and Laters
Monocle magazine and Japanese manga
Futura Nosferatus and HTM trainers
I love Street Fighter 2, I just really hate Zangief
Only Ken and Ryu, I find it hard to beat Blanka
Keep a Wee Ninja hanging and an UNKLE album banging..

Don’t get it twisted, I am not over materialistic. At least I don’t think I am. Actually, living abroad and moving around quite a bit has forced to me stay lean with items and only travel with the essentials. So I want to make that clear.

I do have a list of prized possessions or brands/products I trust and are go to items. I love a good Moleskine note with a quality pen. I have a Barbour bag and Fjällräven backpack plus a Samsonite weekend bag that swear by. I am still a PlayStation gamer and represent team Nike/Jordan.

I can’t go wrong with Clark shoes, or Dressmann underwear. Yes, I have become particular about my under garments. M&S cashmere jumpers (or sweaters as we call them back home in the US) and Mason Cash or Le Cruset kitchenware comes to mind as quality products I always go for if possible.

I am not name dropping to show off. More times than not, I am okay with a cheaper brand/product as longs as it actually does the job intended. But, there are just some things I just can’t go without.

I usually try to have a Moleskine near me to write any notes that I want to save.

Good or bad, based on what I mentioned above, you have formed an initial or modified an existing view of me. Yet, that’s the point. Fair or not, what I consume is an important part of my identity.

Let’s just say as cliche as it sounds, I have grown. Yes, I would have grown if I have stayed in the US and only have traveled abroad from time to time. On the contrary I think a 32 year old Michael who did’t leave for Europe almost six years ago would look very very different to the Michael you see now.

I foresee at least another 5 years or so outside the United States and this is definitely by choice. I do miss the day-to-day opportunities to spend time with my friends and family. But I don’t miss living in America and everything with comes with it. As of now, I am content with going home a couple times a year but quickly head back out when I am tired of the craziness that is Planet America*.

* I give credit of that name to the amazing US political commentary show here in Australia.

 

 

 

 

The Expat Life: Home Cookin’

“You don’t know what you have until it’s gone.”

I think that statement rings true when you move abroad.

Moving abroad is a great opportunity for new cultures, new experiences and new food.

However, there are moments where you just want a good burger and fries or some other food you grew up with back home. My word, the list of food I have enjoyed and loved growing up is long and wondrous.

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Gator Tail: Common in my home state of Florida (Photo Courtesy: Food Network)

I am from Florida. Because of Florida’s history and location, there is an abundance of different cuisines that either developed there or moved in with the growth of the state over the past 100 years.

Just to give you an idea of what I am talking about, let me list to you some of the food that is available:

  • Jamaican
  • Mexican
  • Bahamian
  • Cuban
  • Brazilian
  • Peruvian
  • Cajun/New Orleans
  • Soul Food
  • Barbacoa
  • Southern/BBQ

I can go on. The overall name of this cornucopia of food is called Floribbean cuisine.

Honestly, I didn’t get a giant yearning for food from home in the first year abroad while living in London and Shanghai. However, all of that changed when I moved to Oslo. I am not saying Norwegian cuisine made me miss food that was seasoned beyond salt, pepper and maybe dill but it was at that point I just hadn’t had a good Cuban Sandwich or a bowl of Butter Pecan ice cream in quite a while.

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Oslo is a beautiful city. Just not enough BBQ available. (Photo Courtesy: Morten Falch Sortland / Getty Images)

At that point, I decided that if I want Gumbo, then I will need to make it myself. I slowly started cooking dishes I wouldn’t normally make myself. Was it a sign of adulthood? Maybe. Was it desperation for Texas Roadhouse rolls or buttermilk biscuits? Most definitely.

If I recall correctly, I developed 8-10 recipes of different types of food while in Norway.

Since then, I have added to my own personal group of recipes and when I have time I try to add to that list of dishes I can’t have until I return home on holiday.

Next challenge: Jamaican Beef Patties and/or Shrimp Po’Boys

Lessons learned so far:

  1. Unlike my wife, I am horrible at “improvising”. I have to develop a good process and make sure I have all my ingredients within arm’s reach. Luckily, I am getting better at being flexible and adapting to what I have available.
  2. Speaking of that, learn to use the ingredients available. I had to learn how to use Swedish sausage for Gumbo or creme fraiche for dessert.
  3. Thank goodness I have been able to bring grits with me where ever I go.
  4. If you can’t go out and have it, make it yourself. Give it a go.

 

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I am not British but I do love myself a proper “Fry Up”. (Photo Courtesy: Sainsbury’s)

I have lived in Norway, China, the United Kingdom and now Australia with my Swedish wife. Each place has left its mark on me. Akevitt, Swedish bread, Full English Breakfast, Kangaroo steaks, the panoply of deliciousness is something to behold. That makes the expat life something else.

However, there are moments where you just want a taste of home. For me that can simply be a Publix Sub with a glass of an “Arnold Palmer”.

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Publix “Pub” Subs. Absolutely heaven. (Photo Courtesy: Orlando Weekly)