Kiwi Byrds: Hanmer Springs and Christchurch

Soreness. Stiffness. Dead legs.

That would be sufficient terms to describe the state of mine and my wife’s legs after our long hike the day before.

We slowly got out of bed and meandered into Greymouth. We had a great breakfast at Maggie’s Kitchen where we got a homestyle breakfast and I had the french toast with bacon while Sanna had pancakes.

After that we walked around downtown Greymouth which included a look around the seawall and the old Greymouth Clock Tower.

Another attraction of Greymouth is Monteith’s Brewery Company which is headquartered in Greymouth and represents the beer scene on the west coast of South Island.

For my valiant efforts the day before with the hike up Roberts Point, Sanna surprised me with a tour of the brewery and a beer tasting session.

To be totally honest, I am not the biggest beer drinker nor will I ever say I am a beer connoisseur. However, I am nerd and any chance learn about the process of anything let alone get insight into production, logistics and history of a company, I am game. So the tour was interesting and enlightening to say the least.

Sanna and I indulged ourselves with 6 different beers produced by Monteith’s including an American Pale Ale that was pretty nice. But, I think the highlight of the whole experience was that Sanna discovered a beer that she actually likes and can imagine herself ordering if she remotely had a taste for beer. For the record, that beer was called “The Radler“.

Since I did the drinking, I let Sanna do the driving. From Greymouth we drove across the island and stopped in Hanmer Springs.

Other than Milford Sound, the another attraction we highlighted while planning for New Zealand was the thermal springs in Hanmer Springs. Frankly we modified the itinerary to ensure we stopped there.

We arrived in Hanmer Springs in the early evening and after we quickly checked into our hotel and walked (in a stiff and slightly painful manner) to the nearby hot springs.

We went to the hot springs because we have never experienced them. The other godsend about our decision to stop and check out the hot springs was that we were so sore from the previous day’s hike, the relaxing evening at the hot springs took on a therapeutic feel.

The next day we had a nice breakfast before we casually drove to Christchurch where we found our hotel and returned our rental car at the Christchurch Airport.

Luckily our hotel was in a central Christchurch and made it easy for us to stroll around. We didn’t have any set schedule. We just explored around town. We purchased gifts for the kids including our newborn nephew Theo. Also, I did my obligatory postcards and sent them out to family and friends.

One observation Sanna and I made about Christchurch is that the city is still recovering and rebuilding after the severe earthquakes that hit the city in 2010 and 2016. The most emblematic example of the earthquake damage is the Christchurch Cathedral which still stands in disrepair.

Otherwise, Christchurch gives us the feeling of a hipster and artistic city and gave a nice atmosphere.

In Summation, New Zealand and South Island to be specific is simply magical. You can literally drive pretty much any stretch of road and find a picturesque environment. New Zealand feels clean and fresh as simple as it sounds. South Island is wild and mostly untouched. Probably due to the rough and mountainous terrain of the island. I suggest, if you can, take a good chunk of time, get a car and just drive and enjoy the view.

Top things I learned from South Island.

  1. One way bridges can be tricky
  2. There is sheep. Everywhere
  3. Fergburger is worth it. Get Fergburger in your life. Full stop.
  4. Take a cruise while at Milford Sound. Plus stay dry
  5. Kill possums and buy the fur by products to support the conservation of natural kiwi birds
  6. Hanmer Springs is nice but the food is very expensive for what it is
  7. Rugby runs through the blood of New Zealand
  8. Don’t drive crazy around the turns in the mountains unless you want to test your fate (and car)

 

NZ Trip Map

Kiwi Byrds: Lake Wanaka and Franz Josef Glacier

We woke up in Te Anau after an amazing cruise around Milford Sound. Today would be a lot of driving as we travel up to Franz Josef Glacier. We had an idea that even though we won’t really stop anywhere, there should be an abundance of picturesque views on on this drive to Glacier Country.

We got up and got breakfast before we got in the car, synced up our podcasts plus the most diverse road trip play list you can think of, and hit the road.

Like I said, more driving than stopping this day, but from the pictures, you will see that pictures does all of talking at this point. We did stop at Lake Wanaka for lunch and stroll around the lake that gives the town its name before continuing the migration to the west coast of the South Island and heading north.

We made it to Glacier Country after dark and arrived into the small town named after the Franz Josef Glacier where we quickly checked into our hostel room and had dinner. We called it a night as soon as possible as we knew tomorrow would be an eventful day in more ways than one.

We woke up and knew today was important.

The main reason is that today, March 28, is our fourth year wedding anniversary. So, you know what that means…..

That classic will be played a few times throughout the day.

Another reason, was that Sanna and I would hike for 11 kilometers and go up over 600 meters to get a good view of Franz Josef Glacier.

Sanna and I have learned already that we are sometimes foolishly stubborn. Our excursion up to Roberts Point on our anniversary would be an excellent example of this self assessment.

The Roberts Point trail was hailed and warned as a trail for “experienced” and “mature” hikers. We thought to ourselves, well we have hiked before and we consider ourselves pretty mature and experienced so we should have no trouble with this trail.

Boy we were in for a rude awakening. The estimated return time for this hike was 5 hours. We did it in 7 hours. 7 hours due to the amount times we had to stop because we were either exhausted on the way up or experiencing muscle cramps and spasms on the way back down.

Let’s just say after we were done, we got our fill of hiking for a short while. However, it was worth it.

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Behind those smiles were tired and sweaty existences. Moreover, the thought of the pending doom of our trek back down lingered heavily on our minds while we were up there.

The timely and arduous trail didn’t give us much time to drive up to Greymouth for a nice anniversary dinner.

We got some amazing shots on the drive north on west coast north of Franz Josef towards Greymouth.

So, we did what we could. As a result, we had a romantic dinner in our accommodation which was two pizzas from dominoes and water. That meal oozed with intimacy and romanticism as we ate 5 dollar pizzas on the cardboard it came in.

But it was nice to calm down after a lot walking (including some actual climbing) and some driving and just laugh at our inherent ability to ignore the warning signs then show a funny and blinded faith in our ability. Case in point for our grueling hike up a mountain because we didn’t want to be defeated and to retreat plus we had the desire to get a great view of a glacier which are not that common outside of Arctic environments.

Lastly, it is just another adventure that continues to forge us together on this journey we are exploring together as a married couple. Love my Sanna Byrd.

Kiwi Byrds: Queenstown and Milford Sound

New Zealand. The land further down under and home of the Lord of The Rings.

But before I jump straight into the first couple days of our new adventure, let me give you a brief backstory of our choice to travel here.

Sanna and I decided to make a trip somewhere during the Easter Break since we already had a few days off and could extend the break with some annual leave.

For destinations, we were choosing between Perth and Western Australia; Queensland or New Zealand. Those were good options to have to be honest.

We went with NZ because Western Australia was nice but the South Island of NZ was a little more enticing. Also, even though we would love to see Queensland and the Barrier Reef, I am from tropical Florida and can enjoy the same climate and coral reefs of the Florida Keys and the Caribbean. We do miss the cute quokka of WA but some sacrifices had to be made.

It is a luxurious problem to have such options but New Zealand was a whole new country to explore.

Now, on to the highlights of our arrival and first two whole days.

We had an afternoon flight so we arrived in the evening. Wasn’t ideal, but this made the plane ticket cheaper so we will take it.

The flight was very uneventful, which is always great. I am a firm believer of uneventful flights over “eventful” flights. But we had amazing views of the ground from above.

We passed through security and immigration in Queenstown Airport with ease. Sanna’s was smoother than mine to be frank. We went through different queues due to our nationalities. I say Sanna had it better because her queue was shorter and she was able to get a stamp in her passport. I love getting stamps in my passport but was not able to this time because of an agreement between NZ and the USA (ePassport).

Because of the time we arrived, we just had time to get to our accommodation and have dinner. We went to the famous Fergburger. I can say without a doubt that I had one of the best burgers in my lifetime there. If you make it to this side of the world, then you must give it a go. There is always a long line to get a meal so they are doing something right. Beyond that, we quickly went back to our place for the night and slept.

The next day we spent in Queenstown. We got up and had a simple breakfast and went into town. Queenstown is a nice small town known for skiing in the winter and outdoor sports in the summer.

We first stopped by the Kiwi and Birdlife Park. This place is a park plus a wildlife conservation effort. We were able to see some of the native birds including the well known Kiwi.

Interesting takeaway from a presentation of different animals are the showing of animals non-indigenous to New Zealand and considered pests. One of the animals was the cute possum from Australia. The possum has been such a nuisance to the natural environment that we were advised (encouraged even) to not swerve around them with our cars, but to kill them. Also, the purchase of possum fur was requested of us as this will incentive the trapping of invasive possums.

So we did. We did our part for the protection of New Zealand and its wildlife by buying two pairs of gloves and a hat made from Merino wool with possum fur. Possum fur is very soft and warm. Also, Sanna found a nice tea towel with Kiwis on it.

We went into central Queenstown and had lunch before meandering around in combination with some window shopping. While exploring I found a nice sports shop. If you don’t know already, I collect sports scarves and/or memorabilia from my travels. So naturally, I had to get myself a scarf representing the New Zealand Rugby Team or the “All Blacks”. Also, I am quite nerdy and I collect currencies of the countries I travel. So I made sure I immediately saved a five dollar bill for my ever growing collection.

We did a quick walk around the Queenstown Gardens which had a impressive rose garden, different types of trees and great views of the surrounding mountain side.

Honestly we just enjoyed the views of the town and people. The weather was cool but sunny. Later that day after dinner, we treated ourselves to cookies from the Cookie Bar. Triple chocolate cookie for Sanna and a white chocolate and macadamia nut cookie for me. After dessert with tea, we turned in for the night.

This morning was the first day we would drive in the country. Also, today is the only scheduled activity so far. We planned to take the last cruise for the day of Milford Sound. The drive would be over three hours from Queenstown. So in other words, we were on a tight schedule. We backtracked to the airport to pick up our vehicle and quickly hit the road. I essentially did what I could without speeding to get us to Milford Sound in time. To our luck we made it in time for a quick lunch before speed walking to the dock.

Milford Sound. Actually it is not a sound but a fjord. Lesson number 1. Lesson number 2, Milford sound is the wettest place on earth at sea level.

I can not explain the beauty of the place. I hope the pictures do Milford Sound justice. While driving down to the port and during the cruise, it was rainy and windy. However, the weather added to the lure and mystique of the place. Milford Sound and the surrounding area and park has to be one of the most stunning places I have ever seen.

After the cruise, we enjoyed the ride back to the village of Te Anau for night. You will see in the pictures below that we got a very small setup but it will do.

I am writing this now after dinner and about to retire for the night but tomorrow should nice with more amazing vistas while driving up to Franz Josef Glacier.